I had a 460W amp powering my 2 10s (bandpass box) but the bass would cut out after turning it up abit.
So my dad gave me one of the amps in the durango and he got my old amp. we made the switch and i noticed i could turn it up more but the bass doesnt rattle the mirrors as it used to (the amp is a Rockford 500S 1000w).
So when I was tunning the amp with it turned on I noticed it got blistering HOT, So I asked my dad about that and he said thats normal so I brushed it off and forgot about it.
So about 30minute’s ago I was coming from KFC/TACO BELL (combined) and as I was leaving i smelled something burning and since its not really safe to reveal what you got in your car at night I drove home as fast i could and i checked it but i couldnt see anything, When I flopped down the back seat the smell got stronger (Amp is screwed on to the back of the sub box).
So anyone know what I should do about the fire hazard or the not bassy bass?
You think i need new subs because when i was tunning everything the subs are moving like theres no tomarrow and the air is gushing out the port holes but its not vibrateing like its supposed to… :danger:
EDIT:So it is the subs…375W Peak power with the amp tested at 1100W (found the papers for it) the subs are getting tooo much power… :bored:
u have to tune your amp for your subs thats what the gain is for. 375 watts in a ported or band pass it taks less power. make shure is is 4 gauge it should say on the wire. if its not thats probly your prob because amp is not getting the power it needs and working to hard to get it. make shure u gain is not all the way up. make shure u have the subs wire right to to amp make shure the way u have them wired is ok for theamp. say u have the amp wired a a 1ohm load and it only takes a 2 ohm it will heat up. good luck
Im sure its the subs, i tuned the amp for well over an hour, ill check the wires for the 4gauge though, im sure its hooked up right because i made sure when i made the amp swap to tape up the wires with a piece of paper telling what wire go’s where, and ill check the ohms? thing whatever they are :run:
The first thing I would check, is what is the load at the sub box , [ how many OHMs ] what type of speaker SVC, DVC, 8,6,4,or 2 OHMs and how are they wired, [if more then one VC or speaker] then, how low a load will the amp handle.
Although being overpowered is better then being underpowered , if a speaker is rated to handle 250 watts continuous and 500 watts peak, then running more then 250 watts into it continuously will not only damage the speaker but the amp will run hot, if the load is to low for the amp, the amp will run hot, if the amp doesn’t get enough power, [poor power or ground] the amp will run hot, [I think this may be the problem as you say that the speaker cones move a lot, but you don’t get the bass you used to ] an underpowered amp will run hot and “clip” and the output, at “clipping” will change from AC to DC, [ lots of cone movement] and a 4ga power wire does not mean the amp is getting all the power it needs, you also need a good ground, also a 4ga power and good 4ga ground is no good if the groungs under the hood have not been upgraded, and I can go on, but check the above first. :blah: 94
I took it to my friends brothers shop (pro-audio and security) and they said the same thing but they just said higher watted subs will cool down the amp and ill get the bass… :bored: .
I am so tired of this car all i want is some bump in the trunk :bored:
The problem with the hot amp was the subs only took 375W and the amp was giving out 500 to each of them so the power was recoiling back to the amp over heating it so to fix that problem i just bought my dads 2 12" JL Audio subs that he bought with the amp last year for $1000 (all together just for those 3 things) and for the box I made a startleing discovery.
I found 2 separate boxes for 12" subs that belong to my brother (i asked if i could have them and he agreed since he didnt get my a B-day gift) :dance: :dance: :dance:
